Big Bend
Vast, harsh, stark, peaceful, still, lovely. Big Bend National Park is many things, and it can be the opposite of itself in a matter of minutes. We opted out of seeing the park earlier in our travels. It seemed a long way to and a long way from.
A few weeks ago, as we were hiking down Guadalupe Peak, Alanna brought the subject up—should we go to Big Bend? We’re in Texas? As happens when you’ve been together as long as we have, I was thinking the same thing. So we went, and now we are quite glad that we did, even though it was a long way, maybe not so much in mileage though certainly in mindset. Maybe it felt much further than it is simply because we were driving deep into Texas and we just didn't know what to expect.
The first day of driving was some of the hardest we have done on this trip. Roads made horrible by the constant traffic of giant fracking trucks, infamous west Texas winds capable of blowing us off the road, and tumbleweed after tumbleweed. After a frustrating and hostile encounter with a camp host at Balmorrhea State Park, we slept that night, with one eye open, at one of many roadside picnic areas that allow overnight RV parking.
Our arrival in Big Bend was an eventful one. We hoped to camp at Chisos Basin, which is up in the mountains since the forecast was calling for 100+ temps down near the river, and there was hiking we wanted to do up that way. That didn’t work out. After we pulled into an empty site, a camp host with a chip on his shoulder came racing around the corner and accused me of stealing reservation tags off the site post. I was baffled; we would never do that—maybe, there are campers out there who would, but we certainly haven’t met them yet. He had no basis for this accusation, yet he continued to be belligerent towards me. It was bizarre and our first bad experience with anyone working or volunteering for the NPS. We reported him to the ranger on duty and then wrote up a feedback form for the superintendent. It’s just not alright for anyone to be treated that way.
So, off we went to the Rio Grande Village. We found a great spot, and by great I mean ample shade in the no generator section. It was HOT. I won’t belabor the point, but I do want you to know that it was over 105 degrees for the four nights we spent in the park. I melt. Alanna basks. We make it work.
We did some excellent hikes, early in the morning, and really enjoyed exploring the desert and the mountains and the new Fossil Discovery exhibit. One hike took us along the Rio Grande to a natural hot spring. Alanna jumped right in. I didn’t want to combust, so I sat on the sidelines, enjoying her joy. She cooled off in the Rio Grande and then we hiked back in some seriously warm weather. Maybe we trudged that one more than hiked.
Birds. This park is famous for the birds that live here or use it as a way station. Over 400 species of birds can be spotted, if you are lucky, in the park at various times of the year. March is a good time! The Vermillion Flycatcher was in abundance. Roadrunners delighted us withtheir insect hunting methods and their startling calls. When we spotted a Pyrrhuloxia, we both shouted “oh, oh, oh!” as we pointed out the window of the Minnie. My moment of glory, though, was spotting and identifying a Golden-fronted Woodpecker. Safe to say I may have officially crossed over into being a birder in that moment. It was exhilarating!
One evening, we hiked to the overlook near the campground to watch the sunset. From this vantage point, it set over Mexico. Sublime. That’s an apt descriptor of the color and peace that radiated from this remarkable daily occurrence. Then I thought to myself, “Seriously. A wall. Here. Why?”
As we hiked the trails adjacent to the river, nearly every day, we kept asking ourselves these questions. How could anyone consider building a wall along this absolutely beautiful part of our country. We’ve read recently that this park is one of the spots they are considering starting this farcical project since the federal government controls the land. No eminent domain necessary.
Look at Alanna’s incredible photos to decide for yourself—is it worth building a wall, decimating this gorgeous place, so that maybe a few migrants who may cross the border here would be stopped? Clearly, we think it’s a horrible idea. We need wild places to remain wild, so that animals, like theMexican black bear, can freely roam their territory, which is borderless, and so that people, who need and seek wild places for whatever reason, have them at the ready, even if they are miles and miles from anywhere.
Our stay in Big Bend ended unfortunately, sort of as it began. A fellow traveler from Washington, DC came over to ask us about the weather. In the end of a conversation that covered a lot of benign as well as bizarre territory, he made sure to let us know that, “I’m a christian and I don’t agree with the gay lifestyle.” It was really unfortunate, and quite unsettling. We asked him to leave and then tried to settle in for the evening.
That night, we had red flag warnings due to the extreme heat and dry conditions and the high winds that kicked up. Tough to get to sleep as it felt like red flags were up for lots of reasons, though I was relieved to be woken up by cooler winds around 1am. We packed up early and hit the road, knowing we had miles to cover, if only in our minds. Even though our trip was bookended by unfortunate encounters with nasty humans, we are glad we went to Big Bend NP. It’s like nothing else we have seen, and we are glad to be witnesses to the necessity of this place, exactly as it is today.
